Monument/Little 3 Fingered Jack Area Opens

Posted by Mike Volk on 06/22/11

From the Smith Rock State Park office:
The Monument area eagle climbing closure has been lifted. Regretfully all three of the Golden Eagle eaglets have failed to survive. We are looking forward to better results next year.

Thanks to everyone for respecting the eagle closure this year.

Missing Hanger - Matthew 7:24

Posted by Mike Volk on 06/21/11

On 6/17/2011 there was a missing hanger on the last bolt before the anchors on Matthew 7:24 (5.10b in the Pleasure Palace). The anchor bolts both have hangers, but there are no chains.

Loose Bolts - Five Easy Pieces

Posted by Mike Volk on 04/29/11

Missing hangers on Crumble Pie...I'd like to replace them, but need a little info...

Posted by sean rule on 04/03/11

Hello, all.  I hope you were able to get out into the goodness today (4.3.11).

So, our crew was having a blast down at Southern Tip.  When we arrived, we decided to warm up on Crumble Pie.  Watts' new guidebook lists it as 5.9 R with widely spaced bolts.  What it fails to mention is that three of the 5 bolts are, indeed, widely spaced, but also missing hangers.  The crux bolt, from what I could tell, was missing, and a fall from there (bolt 3) would put you in the dirt, about 25 to 30 feet below.  As such, this climb, in my opinion, now has at least an R/X seriousness grade.   One of the two anchor bolts is also missing its hanger (fortunately, knowing it was rated R, I bought up some TCUs and slings, which allowed me to create a 3 - point anchor up top).

I have a few Metolius Enviro hangers that I'd like to donate to this route.  Sure, it's a choss fest, but hey...who knows what some (potential) traffic could do to it?  As it is, the easiest climb at Southern Tip (not counting the Waterfall Crag) is Kunza Corner, and who besides me drags a full rack down there?  (by the way, if you're the one who left the fixed stopped 10' below the anchor on KC, thanks!  It came in handy). If we get the hangers back on this puppy, there'd actually be a sub-5.10 warmup climb down there. I would not add any other bolts to negate the R - rating, but I would add chains to the anchors to make for easier raps.

I would also not be opposed to putting a hanger back on bolt 1 on Yoderific, either.

As I mentioned, I have some enviro hangers and chain that I'm willing to donate to the cause. What I need is a list of common sizes/thread counts of the bolts used at Smith so I can go to the hardware store and get a bunch of nuts. So...who can tell me?

You can either post here, or shoot me an email at seanrule at gmail dot com. Thanks for helping me take care of these climbs

Also, what is with the source code for this blog?  It keeps giving me superflous error messages that I fix in HTML code but keep mysteriously reappearing.  Any ideas there?

Happy gravity fightin', all.

Loose hold on Rope De Dope

Posted by calebp on 03/29/11

I found a potentially dangerous loose hold on the second to last route on the right side of rope De Dope. The hold was a very chalky well used undercling that was part of a larger flake. The part that moved seemed about the size of a brick and was about 10m . Seemed worth noting.

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