Spiderman Buttress Closed

Mike Volk — Fri, 26 Apr 2013 17:31:13 +0000

From the Smith Rock State Park office:
A pair of falcons are nesting in the Spiderman Buttress area. Climbing routes and the ground around the base of the nest area are closed but hiking trails remain open.

Falcon's will defend their nest aggressively. They can be a danger to climbers, and vice versa.

Closure PDF

Original post blogged on b2evolution.

Chopper Flake

Mike Volk — Wed, 24 Apr 2013 16:15:11 +0000

Route condition report e-mailed to SmithRock.com:
[We] climbed at the Mole yesterday. Ended up climbing Chopper on TR with a buddy and near the top of the flake, the flake shifted. It is still in place but really seems like it is ready to come off.

Original post blogged on b2evolution.

Bald Eagle Nesting Closure for 2013

Mike Volk — Thu, 04 Apr 2013 21:27:24 +0000

From the Smith Rock State Park office:
The Bald Eagles are in their nest in a large Ponderosa pine tree located between the bivouac camping area and the Crooked River.

Approximately ten camp sites along the canyon rim in the Bivouac camping area are closed. Also a section of the Canyon Trail is closed. Closure signs have been posted in the Bivouac camping area, at the Canyon Trail trail heads, and along the Canyon Trail at the point of the closure. The closures will be in place through July 31, 2013 or until further notice.

This closure does not effect any climbing routes or access.

Original post blogged on b2evolution.

Kiss of the Leper Area Closure for 2013

Mike Volk — Tue, 02 Apr 2013 17:30:35 +0000

From the Smith Rock State Park office:
The "Kiss of the Leper" area is closed to climbing until June 30th to protect nesting Prairie Falcons.

Closure area map.

Original post blogged on b2evolution.

Golden Eagle Closure Area for 2013

Mike Volk — Tue, 05 Mar 2013 22:32:29 +0000

From the Smith Rock State Park office:
The Golden Eagles have chosen a nest site on "Puddy's Tower" just to the west of the Monument. We just finished posting climbing closure signs at the base of the area and a couple along the backside off the new Summit Trail.

The closure area is the same as it was last year. Closure area map.

Original post blogged on b2evolution.

Vomit Launch Bolt Replacement

alexclimbs — Tue, 05 Mar 2013 22:29:23 +0000

I think Vomit Launch could use a full bolt replacement. Almost alll the 3/8" wedge bolts have through the years apparently backed out, started to have loose SMC hangers and then someone would tighten them causing the stud to back further out of the holes and since the studs are not all-thread they can no longer be tightened (not that you'd want to tighten anymore anyways). Pulling wedge bolts is always a pain but if someone has the gear, I am more than willing to help out since I've got free time. Just send me a message!

Original post blogged on b2evolution.

Canyon Trail & Bivy Rim Re-open

Mike Volk — Thu, 19 Jul 2012 17:53:08 +0000

From the Smith Rock State Park office:
The Bald Eagle chick has successfully fledged. The Bivouac rim camping closure and the Canyon Trail closure have been lifted as of 7-18-12.

Original post blogged on b2evolution.

Hangers Missing on "Guinness"

Mike Volk — Thu, 12 Jul 2012 16:11:05 +0000

From an email sent to SmithRock.com:
Reported on 7/11/2012 by Kent F. - We were climbing at Smith Rock all last week, and one area we went to explore was the “Hello Kitty” cliff. The new book says there is a bolted 5.7 route on the right that veers left up to chains ("Guinness"-route #49 on page 226 of Alan Watts' new guide). I saw bolts with nuts on them, but no hangers.

Original post blogged on b2evolution.