Known as the birthplace of U.S. sport climbing in 1986, Smith Rock State Park wasn’t the easiest place for it to happen.

rock climbing on Five Gallon Buckets on Morning Glory Wall at Smith Rock State ParkThe volcanic welded tuff of the area for the most part is soft and crumbly.

A few choice walls of perfect stone make for some of the best routes in the country to rock climb, both sport and trad.

Add to the mix the basalt columns in the Gorge with its jam cracks and stemming corners, and the range of fun stuff is only limited by the toughness of your fingertips.

While most of the popular climbing routes can be done in one pitch, some top out at 600 feet. With close to 2000 routes ranging from fourth class to 5.14, you’ve got a lot to do.

To get a preview of the climbing areas before you get here, we’ve got the big walls featured, how to get to them and 3+ star rated routes on each.waiting to rock climb in the Peanut on Morning Glory Wall at Smith Rock State Park

The guidebooks for the area have it covered in detail, as do the knowledgeable guide services.

Check out the forum to get the latest from fellow climbers on new routes, route conditions, route and area closures, climbing partners and more.

Connect and share stories of your dirtbag life.

Need a place to camp? There’s a walk-in campground aka “The Bivy,” as well as other options in the area.

Bringing your dog? We love dogs, but the park’s got rules, especially for climbers with dogs. Let’s make sure everyone has a fun day at the crag.


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Online resource for adventurers to Smith Rock State Park. Detailed information for rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, slacklining and horseback riding.