Ships and Gullies

Looking to crank on some hard stuff? The Wooden Ships and her gullies won’t disappoint.

climbers on the Western Ship at Smith Rock State ParkWhile some of the easiest bolted routes on the ships are 5.7, the gullies are a different story.

Just to the left of Shiprock, the two ribs of the East and West Ships carve out three gullies.

A special place where those with a thing for endurance challenges get satisfaction.

Hang a left at the bridge past Picnic Lunch Wall and follow the River Trail for just over .15 miles until you cut up the first stair-cased hill trail to the gullies.

The right side of the East Ship is home to the bulgy, bolted routes of Shiprock Gully. Cocaine Gully and its vertical faces border the left face of the West Ship.

climbers on Cocaine Gully at Smith Rock State Park

In between the two crags lies the mother lode of overhanging routes–Aggro Gully. A shady refuge from the summer heat, as well as a sunny spot on cold days, the gullies are choice for year-round climbing.

Explore the whole area, from ships to gullies by checking out some of these:
(All are rated 3 star in Alan Watts’ Guidebook, with * noting a 4 star)

East Ship-Shipwreck Wall:
Time to Shower
  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

Phone Call From Satan  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

More Sandy Than Kevin
 5.11a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Blue Light Special 5.11b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Purple Aces 5.11b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Riptide 5.11b sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

Bolt from the Blue 
5.12a  sport, 15 bolts, 1 pitch
Liquid Jade 5.12b  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
Undertow 5.12b  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
Time to Power 5.12c  sport, 16 bolts, 1 pitch
Tsunami 5.12c  sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch

Table Scraps Wall:

Fisn ‘n Chips
 5.10c  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
The Skipper’s Little Buddy 5.10d  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

Aggro Gully:
Pouch Whisker
 5.11b  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
*Toxic 5.11c  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Up For Grabs 5.11d sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

Planet Mechanic 5.12a  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
Scrotal Avenger 5.12a  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
Monkey Boy 5.12c  sport, 1 pitch, 60′
The Quickening 5.12d  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

Kill the Hate
 5.13a  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
Aggro Monkey 5.13b  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch
Scene of the Crime 5.13b  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch
Disposable Heros 5.13c  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
The Burl Master 5.13c  sport,  8 bolts, 1 pitch
Lucky Pigeon (aka Partners in Crime) 5.13c  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
Mama Docus 5.13c  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
White Wedding 5.13d  sport,  11 bolts, 1 pitch

Repeat Offender
 5.14a  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
Villain 5.14a  sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch
*Bad Man 5.14a  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch
Shotgun Wedding 5.14b  sport, 15 bolts, 1 pitch
Shock and Awe 5.14c  sport, 16 bolts, 1 pitch

West Ship-River Face:
Purple Headed Warrior  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

Time to Shower
  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

Phone Call From Satan  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

Time’s Up
 5.13b  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
Power 5.13b  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
Slit Your Wrists 5.13b  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch

Mr. Yuk 5.14a  sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch

Cocaine Gully:

Chicken McNuggets
  5.10b  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
Powder Up The Nose 5.10d  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

5.11a  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
*Vomit Launch 5.11b  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

Freebase 5.12a  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
The Blade 5.12a  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch


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Online resource for adventurers to Smith Rock State Park. Detailed information for rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, slacklining and horseback riding.