Smith Rock Group

This massive formation of tall colorful spires and cliffs that stretch from the base of Asterisk Pass and around the Southern Tip of the park are home to some of the biggest walls at Smith.

 
climber on Phoenix Block on the Smith Rock Group at Smith Rock State Park

Known for its long free routes, the Smith Rock Group is where trad, sport, and big wall climbing all come together.

Couple that with an opportunity to get away from the crowds and the mid-day sun at The Dihedrals.

You get to experience multi-pitch fun with shorter wait times. Except for Phoenix, that is.

A bit of a walk, go left at the bridge on the River Trail .58 miles to arrive at Phoenix Buttress, a solid reddish-purple mass.

From sport to trad, 1 pitch to 8, check these out: (All are rated 3 star in Alan Watts’ Guidebook, with * noting a 4 star)

Northeast Face:
5.7s:
Sky Chimney   
trad, gear to 3 inches, 3 pitches

5.8s:
Sky Ridge R  mixed to 2.5 inches, 2 pitches

5.9s:
White Satin  trad, gear to 3 inches, 3 pitches

5.10s:
Lost in Space
5.10b  sport, 10 bolts, 4 pitches
Lycra 5.10b  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
*White Lycra 5/10b  mixed to 3 inches, 1 pitch
Sky Dive 5.10c  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

5.11s:
Destiny Unbound
5.11b  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch
Evolution Theory
5.11b  mixed to 3 inches, 4 pitches
Season’s Change 5.11b  sport, 12 bolts, 6 pitches
Kevin’s Arête (aka Cheap Polyester)
5.11c  sport, 14 bolts, 2 pitches


The Pinnacles:

The Platform
5.10s:
Snibble Tower 5.10a A1 R  trad, clean to 3 inches, 6 pitches

5.11s:
Farewell to Smith
5.11a  trad, gear to 3.5 inches, 2 pitches
*Good Ol’ Variation 5.11b  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
The Good Ol’ Days
5.11c  mixed to 3 inches, 6 pitches

5.12s:
*Freedom’s Just Another Word for Nothing Left to Lose 5.12b  mixed to 3 inches, 6 pitches


East Wall:

5.10s:
Dyer’s Eve 5.10d  trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch

5.11s:
*European Vacation
5.11a R  mixed to 4 inches, 8 pitches
The Struggle Within 5.11d  sport, 11 bolts, 4 pitches

5.12s:
No Vacation 5.12a  (optional gear to 1 inch), 9 bolts, 2 pitches


Smith Summit Crag:
5.11s:
The Struggle Within original start 5.11a  sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch
*American Nirvana 5.11c  mixed to 1 inch, 1 pitch
Eye of the Beholder 5.11c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
Blackened 5.11d  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
Harvester of Sorrow 5.11d  sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch

5.13s:
Livin’ Large 5.13a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
100% Beef
5.13c  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch


Phoenix Buttress:
5.8s:
Scary Llamas (aka Hissing Llamas)  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

5.10s:
Phoenix
5.10a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
*Jim Treviso Memorial Route (aka JT’s Route)  5.10b  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

5.11s:
License To Bolt 5.11c  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch


Southern Tip:
5.10s:
*Kunza Korner
5.10c  trad, gear up to 2 inches, 1 pitch

5.11s:
Sabotage 5.11c  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
Wave of Bliss 5.11dR  mixed to 3 inches, 1 pitch

5.12s:
South Park 5.12a  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch


West Side Routes:
Northwest Wall
5.5s:
Bits and Pieces start  
sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
My Little Pony  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

5.8s:
Chalk Wave  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

5.9s:
Stained  
sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
*Sunset Slab  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
*Wherever I May Roam  sport, 10 bolts, 5 pitches

5.10s:
The Unforgiven Variation 5.10b  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
The Unforgiven 5.10d  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
Thieves Like Us 5.10d  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

5.11s:
Role Model 5.11a R  mixed to 3.5 inches, 1 pitch

5.12s:
Tears of Rage 5.12b  mixed to 2 inches, 9 bolts, 4 pitches


Cod Rock
5.10s:
Butterknife Arête
5.10c  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

 

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Online resource for adventurers to Smith Rock State Park. Detailed information for rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, slacklining and horseback riding.