The Dihedrals

The spectacular accordion of sheer rock faces known as The Dihedrals immortalized Smith Rock State Park as the foundation for sport climbing of the country.


Prior to the early to mid 80s, climbing here was limited to scattered cracks and easy faces.

climber on Chain Reaction in the Dihedrals at Smith Rock State ParkOnce Alan Watts, who literally wrote the book on Smith, tapped into the untouched faces and arêtes, he found reams of usable holds.

Smith then burst onto the international climbing scene with the first free ascent by French climber Jean Baptiste Tribout on To Bolt or Not to Be, the first 5.14 in the U.S.

Follow the River Trail left of the bridge for .25 miles. Look for the compost toilet strategically placed to serve this extremely popular area and hang a left once you get up to the base just past Morning Glory Wall.

With over 60 amazing sport and trad climbs from 5.5 to 5.14, no wonder it gets crowded.

Help out the situation and limit your climbing party size to give everyone a chance to jump on some of these favorites:
(All are rated 3 star in Alan Watts’ Guidebook, with * noting a 4 star)

NIght Flight  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

Easy Reader  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
Rattlesnake Chimney  trad, 1 pitch, 175′
Cinnamon Slab  trad, gear to 3.5 inches, 2 pitches

Bunny Face  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Bookworm  mixed to 3.5 inches, 2 pitches

Lichen It  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
Ginger Snap  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch

Helium Woman  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
Ancylostoma  sport, 1 pitch
*Moonshine Dihedral  trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch
Cry Baby  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

Karate Crack 5.10a  trad, gear to 3 inches, 1 pitch
Wedding Day 5.10b  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

Fresh Squeezed 5.11a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
*Karot Tots
5.11b  mixed to 2.5 inches, 2 pitches
Middle Aged Vandal 5.11c  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Moondance 5.11c  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
Slow Burn 5.11d R  mixed to 4 inches, 1 pitch

Heinous Cling Start 5.12a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
Latin Lover 5.12a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
*Sunshine Dihedral 5.12a  mixed to 1 inch, 2 pitches
Take a Powder 5.12a  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
*Power Drive 5.12a R  mixed to 3.5 inches, 1 pitch
*Crossfire 5.12b  mixed, to 4 inches, 1 pitch
Firing Line 5.12b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Kilo Watts 5.12b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
*Latest Rage 5.12b  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
*Watts Tots 5.12b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Vision 5.12b  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch
*Chain Reaction  5.12c  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
Darkness at Noon 5.12c  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
Go Dog Go 5.12c  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
*Last Waltz 5.12c  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
Powder in the Eyes 5.12c  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
*Karate Wall 5.12c R  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
*Heinous Cling 5.12c R  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
Last Waltz Direct 5.12c R  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
Low Profile 5.12c R  mixed to 1.5 inches, 1 pitch
*Monster Rage 5.12d R  mixed to 3.5 inches, 1 pitch

*Darkness at Noon 5.13a  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
*French Connection 5.13b  mixed to 1 inch, 1 pitch
Mega Watts 5.13b  TR, 1 pitch

Little Miss Sunshine 5.14a  sport 11 bolts, 1 pitch
*To Bolt Or Not To Be
5.14a  sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch


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Online resource for adventurers to Smith Rock State Park. Detailed information for rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, slacklining and horseback riding.