The Marsupials

Looking to go back in history for what it used to be like at Smith before sport climbing exploded in The Dihedrals in the mid-80s?

climbers on Koala Rock at Smith Rock State ParkThe impressive collection of pinnacles known as The Marsupials lie just across the Gorge.

Perched on BLM land off the east side of the park, they are well worth the hike.

With views of the both the high desert landscape and the Cascade range, the beauty of Central Oregon abounds.

After going right for a mile at the bridge on the Wolf Tree Trail, head up the Burma Road Trail for another .25 miles and stay straight at the fork.

climber on The Wombat at Smith Rock State Park

Trails veer off in different directions to Koala Rock, The Wombat, and Brogan Spire, to name a few of the main crags in the area.

Looking for a range from 5.2 to 5.14? Check.
Looking to do a 10 pitch multi-pitch? Check.

Like we said, totally worth it. Check these out:
(All are rated 3 star in Alan Watts’ Guidebook, with * noting a 4 star)

Koala Rock:
*Round River R  mixed to 1.5 inches, 3 pitches

Cool Man Luke R  trad, gear to 1 inch, 1 pitch

*Round There  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

Changing Lanes  mixed to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
Round River Direct  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

Suck My Kiss 5.10a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
*Thin Air 5.10b  mixed to 2.5 inches, 3 pitches
Buffalo Power 5.10c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
Ryan’s Arête 5.10c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

Cool Air 5.11a  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
To Live is to DIe 5.11a  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
King of Pain 5.11b  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch
Through Being Cool 5.11b  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
Ryan’s Direct 5.11d  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

Brogan Spire:
North Face:
The Great Roof
A2+  clean to 1 inch, 2 pitches

Pouches 5.11c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

*The Optimist 5.14b  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

South Side:

South Buttress
X  mixed to 2 inches, 3 pitches
West Face
X  mixed to 3 inches, 3 pitches

Cave Route  mixed to 2 inches, 3 pitches

Death of a Raven  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

Barred Reality 5.10a  sport, 8 bolts, 3 pitches
Under the Gun 5.10a  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
Short Sharp Shock 5.10b  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
West Gully
5.10d  trad, gear to 1 inch, 2 pitches

The Tail:
Living Blindly  sport, 11 bolts, 2 pitches

Mud Pile:

Carla the Stripper  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
*Lusty Lady  sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch

Edge of the World 5.10b  sport, 2 pitches
The Marsupials Traverse 5.10b R  mixed to 2.5 inches, 10 pitches

Kid-Packed Mini-Van from Hell
5.11a  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

Jacobs-Strain Line 5.12c  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

Delirium Tremens:
Delirium Tremens 5.10b  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch

Airstream 5.11d  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

The Wombat:
Birds in a Rut  mixed to 3 inches, 6 pitches

Endless Weekend 5.10b  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

The Zoo:
Covert Operations 5.10a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Ticks are for Kids 5.10a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

Put Me in the Zoo 5.11a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

Indian and Mendehall Ridge:
Indian Ridge-Squaw Rock:
Spiral R  trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch

Indian and Mendehall Ridge Gully:

Little Finger R  solo, 1 pitch


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Online resource for adventurers to Smith Rock State Park. Detailed information for rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, slacklining and horseback riding.