The Marsupials

Looking to go back in history for what it used to be like at Smith before sport climbing exploded in The Dihedrals in the mid-80s?

 
climbers on Koala Rock at Smith Rock State ParkThe impressive collection of pinnacles known as The Marsupials lie just across the Gorge.

Perched on BLM land off the east side of the park, they are well worth the hike.

With views of the both the high desert landscape and the Cascade range, the beauty of Central Oregon abounds.

After going right for a mile at the bridge on the Wolf Tree Trail, head up the Burma Road Trail for another .25 miles and stay straight at the fork.

climber on The Wombat at Smith Rock State Park

Trails veer off in different directions to Koala Rock, The Wombat, and Brogan Spire, to name a few of the main crags in the area.

Looking for a range from 5.2 to 5.14? Check.
Looking to do a 10 pitch multi-pitch? Check.

Like we said, totally worth it. Check these out:
(All are rated 3 star in Alan Watts’ Guidebook, with * noting a 4 star)

Koala Rock:
5.4s:
*Round River R  mixed to 1.5 inches, 3 pitches

5.5s:
Cool Man Luke R  trad, gear to 1 inch, 1 pitch

5.7s:
*Round There  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

5.8s:
Changing Lanes  mixed to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
Round River Direct  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

5.10s:
Suck My Kiss 5.10a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
*Thin Air 5.10b  mixed to 2.5 inches, 3 pitches
Buffalo Power 5.10c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
Ryan’s Arête 5.10c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

5.11s:
Cool Air 5.11a  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
To Live is to DIe 5.11a  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
King of Pain 5.11b  sport, 12 bolts, 1 pitch
Through Being Cool 5.11b  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
Ryan’s Direct 5.11d  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch


Brogan Spire:
North Face:
5.6s:
The Great Roof
A2+  clean to 1 inch, 2 pitches

5.11s:
Pouches 5.11c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

5.14s:
*The Optimist 5.14b  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch


South Side:

5.5s:
South Buttress
X  mixed to 2 inches, 3 pitches
West Face
X  mixed to 3 inches, 3 pitches

5.7s:
Cave Route  mixed to 2 inches, 3 pitches

5.8s:
Death of a Raven  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

5.10s:
Barred Reality 5.10a  sport, 8 bolts, 3 pitches
Under the Gun 5.10a  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
Short Sharp Shock 5.10b  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
West Gully
5.10d  trad, gear to 1 inch, 2 pitches


The Tail:
5.7s:
Living Blindly  sport, 11 bolts, 2 pitches


Mud Pile:

5.8s:
Carla the Stripper  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch
*Lusty Lady  sport, 14 bolts, 1 pitch

5.10s:
Edge of the World 5.10b  sport, 2 pitches
The Marsupials Traverse 5.10b R  mixed to 2.5 inches, 10 pitches

5.11s:
Kid-Packed Mini-Van from Hell
5.11a  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

5.12s:
Jacobs-Strain Line 5.12c  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch


Delirium Tremens:
5.10s:
Delirium Tremens 5.10b  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch

5.11s:
Airstream 5.11d  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch


The Wombat:
5.7s:
Birds in a Rut  mixed to 3 inches, 6 pitches

5.10s:
Endless Weekend 5.10b  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch


The Zoo:
5.10s:
Covert Operations 5.10a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Ticks are for Kids 5.10a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

5.11s:
Put Me in the Zoo 5.11a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch


Indian and Mendehall Ridge:
Indian Ridge-Squaw Rock:
5.2s:
Spiral R  trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch


Indian and Mendehall Ridge Gully:

5.7s:
Little Finger R  solo, 1 pitch

 

SHARE
Share on FacebookGoogle+Pin on PinterestTweet about this on TwitterEmail to someone

Online resource for adventurers to Smith Rock State Park. Detailed information for rock climbing, hiking, mountain biking, slacklining and horseback riding.