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Missing, Loose or Replaced Bolts and Broken Holds
This information has been supplied by climbers and has not been checked by the SmithRock.com staff. Please contact us if the status of these routes has changed. We appreciate your support!

As of July 2011 route updates are being listed in our "Routes" blog.

On 6/17/2011 there was a missing hanger on the last bolt before the anchors on Matthew 7:24 (5.10b in the Pleasure Palace). The anchor bolts both have hangers, but there are no chains.

Crumble Pie now has a nice set of anchor chains and replaced bolt hangers. I imagine it's now only R - rated, and no longer X - rated. I went ahead and checked all of the lead bolts that were in there. All are great, except for #2; it's a spinner. When I get my bolt kit, I'll replace that one. I also tried to place bolt #1 on Yoder Eaters, but I couldn't reach the damn thing! I was by myself, so I couldn't get a spot. Next time I do Kunza Corner, I'll put it in on rappel. Sean Rule; June 12, 2011

Two bolts down from the anchor on Five Easy Pieces (start) I discovered the bolt sticking out of the casing about an inch, hanger dangling, threads not engaged. I pulled it out by hand, inspected it, and threw it back in. I tightened down the bolt with a wrench, but it's still missing a washer. - Drew Peterson; April 28, 2011

I replaced the bolts on the extension of Magic Light.
Old ones were 2 inches long and 3/8" in diameter and very rusty.
New ones are 4 inches long and 1/2" in diameter and not rusty;) - Ian Caldwell; March 3, 2011

My partner and I have done lots of climbing at Smith this winter and found a couple of loose bolts:
1- At the top of the 2nd pitch of Bunny Face one of the two anchor bolts is loose enough to move in and out about 1/2 an inch and twists half a turn. Might just need to be tighened but I didn't have a wrench with me.
2- Yesterday we climbed Squashed Spider and it's pretty much the same story with one of the anchor bolts. The anchors for the first pitch of spiderman are reachable from there but do not have rappel chains on them. Kirk; January 18, 2011

One of the hangers at the top of the second pitch of the Bunny Face multipitch was loose. We could rotate it fairly easily and the hanger looked like it had been shock loaded such that it was no longer an "L" shape, but slightly obtuse. Norm; June 28, 2010

The fifth bolt of freebase in cocain gully (a glue in) has a quick link on it. The glue is no longer working and the bolt spins in its hole. I beleive I could have taken it out with my fingers if I tried. Justin; June 14, 2010

There is a wasp nest on "Chain Reaction" in a pocket just below the anchors. March 22, 2010

The left anchor bolt at the second anchor station on spiderman was slightly loose- I tightened it down with my fingers but did not have gear to make it any better than that. The right bolt at that station looked very good. Chris, September 28, 2009

The anchor bolts on the route "Butter Knife" at Cod Rock (in the new '09 Supplement) are really sketchy.  This is one of two routes (the one on the right) on the face around the corner to the left of Sunset Slab.  Both anchor bolts are loose and able to move around in their holes.  I didn't feel safe rapping off them, so I traversed over to the left and rapped off "Cure for Pain". Isaac, August 22, 2009

Thomas and I replaced the bolts on Dancing with Clams (new crux bolt and anchors), Zebra direct (first 2), Toxic (4 new bolts and relocated second). Kings of Rap (all new bolts, re-located most of them to eliminate the need for long slings). I will get back to fill in the old holes and to remove the first bolt on Kings (spinner). The hardware I removed form Kings and Toxic is a bit scary. Please see microscope images of the damage. Mike S., May 14,2009

One of the bolts on the bolted line next to Bits and Pieces is gone.  It is one of the first bolts after the ramp at the start of the second pitch that ties into the Wherever I May Roam anchors.  I funked out the bolt with a couple tugs of a quick draw, part of the sleeve and all.  The route is quite dangerous without a suitable bolt at that location.  Jon, September 21, 2007

It appears that, as of today (June 2nd, 07)  the anchor for Matthew 7:24 needs to be redone. It has one hanger only, the other bolt is missing the hanger and there are no chains for the hanger that is there. Makes for HORRIBLE rope drag, found the only way to get down was to use the trial (or use anchors from nearby routes, though you then have an issue getting your draws back!). Also, it appears there is a bolt missing between the last current bolt and the anchor. Not difficult climbing, but if it's going to be protected it might as well be done right. I don't have the tools to put in bolts myself, but I would be willing to help purchase the anchors and last bolt to get replaced is someone else can install them so that no one else runs into this problem or worse gets hurt. Ben, June 2, 2007

Battled my way to the top of what i'm pretty sure is the first pitch of Five Easy Pieces yesterday (May 28th) and found the bolt on the left anchor loose. Could turn the bolt easily by hand but it didn't wiggle and seemed relatively solid once I tightened it up. May 28, 2007

The bolt on Dreamin' under the large roof near the top has been replaced replaced. March, 18, 2007

The rap anchors on the first pitch (old second pitch) on the East Face of Monkey Face have been replaced. Tyler Adams & Jim Anglin, February 11, 2007

Picnic Lunch Wall - Original Picnic Lunch Wall aid route: 2 anchor bolts below the roof on p4 have been replaced. Tyler Adams, Jim Anglin, Cody Peterson, January, 2007

Mesa Verde Wall - Palo Verde: 4 anchor bolts on top of the 4th class ledge. Tyler Adams, January, 2007

We have replaced both rap anchors on Bette's Needle on Staender Ridge. Now both anchors consist of two 1/2"x3.75" Rawls with Fixe double ring hangers. Tyler Adams & Catherine Power; October, 2006

Staender Ridge - The Dinosaur: 2 anchor bolts replaced by Tyler Adams Jake Hector October, 2006

The last weekend of August, a party just leaving Spiderman said they had to down climb to the top of the 2nd pitch because the hangers were missing from the anchor bolts. September 18, 2006.

Moons of Pluto 9/5/06:
8 bolts have been replaced and the existing anchor has been moved to the left side of the arête - no more lowering off over Bad Moon.

Screaming Yellow Zonkers 8/23/06:
The rebolting of this route was done by the person that did the first ascent...There are now 9 instead of 11 bolts and the anchor has been moved below the lip so you can get off with one 60 meter rope.  Rope drag is no longer and issue and it is better protected with less bolts.  One final note, the original line stayed to the right of the current 8th bolt – NOT left into the corner as the chalk highway indicates.
We also replaced the first bolt on Moons of Pluto and moved it right so that SYZ and Moons do not share the same first bolt.  We will try to get out soon and replace all Bolts on Moons…

The 5th bolt on Matthew 7:24 is missing it's hanger. The 2nd bolt has been finger tightened. August, 21, 2005

The left anchor bolt of Five Easy Pieces is loose. It moves around in the hole if you tug on it. The right anchor and all the bolts are solid. March 9, 2005

The first bolt (the bolt not the hanger) is coming out on Latest Rage. It looks bad and should be replaced. Thad B.; February 3, 2005

The third bolt on Spank the Monkey looks awful. It is moving around in the hole and can't really be tightened. Ian Caldwell; September 7,2004

The bolt anchors at the top of Yoder Eaters on the Southern Tip of Smith Rock Proper are missing the hangers. The bolt shafts are intact, but the hangers, rap rings, and nuts are missing. Someone could probably screw these items on. What a shame, cause this route is sick. There is a quick link on the last bolt before the top if you want to do this route and get off it with your gear. Alec Ferguson; September 7,2004

During three days in August 2004 bolts were replaced on a number of climbs thanks to the efforts of Ryan Lawson, Chip Miller, Ian Caldwell, Thomas Emde, Taylor Saul, Ian Yurdin, and Mike Volk.
Monkey Face:
All of the bolts on the West Face and North Face; new anchors in the West Face Cave for rapping the North Face - two rappels to the ground using a 70 meter rope.
The missing fixed pin was replaced with a bolt on Monkey Farce
Mesa Verde Wall:
Anchors added at the top of Sundown
Morning Glory Wall:
The first anchor on Nine Gallon Buckets
All bolts and the anchor on Magic Light
Most of the bolts on Light on the Path
The anchors on Five Gallon Buckets & The Outsiders.
The Dihedrals:
Tightened the bolts on Heinous Cling
Replaced the second bolt on Chain Reaction
Replaced the anchor on Lycopodophyta
Christian Brothers:
Anchor replaced on The Beard
Phoenix Buttress:
Most of the bolts on Fred on Air
Anchors replaced on Phoenix
Two bolts replaced on Drill 'Em and Fill 'Em

On Lichen It, at the top of the first pitch, the right hanger spins freely on the bolt. Mark Kearns; July 21, 2004

Wherever I May Roam: At the top of the second pitch, the first belay station you see (before traversing left around the corner) has a very loose bolt. We tried to hand tighten it as much as possible. Better to avoid it altogether and continue to the much better belay station around the left corner. Eryn Barker, May 17, 2004

At the shared anchor for Lycopodophyta and Rabbit Stew, the hangers are both pretty spinny. My partner tried to hand tighten the bolts, but it didn't work. If somebody could run up with a wrench, a couple of good turns would probably take care of it. Also not an anchor/bolt problem, but ground hornets are starting to make a nest at the base of Wedding Day. Kate ,March 29, 2004

One of the anchor bolts at the top of the first pitch of Teddy Bear's Picnic is loose. Also, two or three of the bolts on Matthew 7:24 (in the Pleasure Palace) spin. I tried to hand tighten them, but then felt "silly even roping up for this boulder problem" (Watts, 1992). Mike Geisen, March 23, 2004

Sunshine Dihedral: The flake on the left face just under the first bolt came off. The route is slightly harder now, and I am proposing a new grade of 5.11d+. Ian Caldwell, February 2, 2004

Churning in the Wake: A minor flake at the finger cam at the 3rd bolt came off. The missing rock does not effect the hold or the grade at all. Ian Caldwell, February 2, 2004

If there are any climbers nuts enough to be aid climbing at this sport climbing mecca....there are many missing bolts and hangers on the west face of monkey. I've done the route three times in the last year and there are three more missing now from my last time up last summer. Bring a LONG cheat stick or better yet a bolt kit. There is one spot on the third pitch where there are two in a row gone, with the condition of these ancient bolts more will be vanishing all the time. Jim, January 26, 2004

The jug that you throw to in the crux of Pouches (11c) in the Marsupials almost broke off while I was pulling on it so I decided for everyone's safety to rip it off but in doing so made the route considerably harder. It ended up that a flake about 2 ft by 1 ft was loose and came off. Hopefully the route can still be done after some dirt is cleaned from the new holds. November 10, 2003

The anchor bolts on the top of the second pitch of Teddy Bear’s (the upper anchors) are both loose, and the hardware-store chains for rappel are very worn. Several of the bolts on the way up the second pitch could also be hand tightened, making for a scary finish, and even scarier rappel. Matt Gadow, October 25, 2003

I've run into a couple of loose anchor bolts recently on both Phoenix and Bunny Face (I think it's the right bolt on each route that wiggles). Mike Geisen, October 1, 2003

The hangers on JT's route on the Phoenix Butress are very worn and should be replaced soon. Looks like many people have top roped through the hangers and have worn a huge groove in them. August 26, 2003

The second bolt on Drill em and fill em is very loose in the rock. August 26, 2003

The right hand bolt on The Beard is very loose in the rock as well as the left hanger. The right hand bolt on Lycopodophyta is very loose as well as the left hanger. Honey Pot has huge loose fractured plates/flakes which appear very unstable. July 14, 2003

As I was rappelling off Screaming Yellow Zonkers, I hand tightened a couple bolts on the slab portion at the end of the route and the middle of the route. I'm concerned that even though I hand tightened these bolts, I wouldn't want someone to take a fall on this climb and end up having the bolt fail. Could someone tighten these bolts down with a wrench? Mel, June 30, 2003

The left bolt on Lycopodophyta moves like a swizzle stick in a martini with hand pressure or body weight. May 12, 2003

One (of 2) rap bolts on top Carabid on the Phoenix Buttresson is loose - the bolt moves around in the rock (not the hanger or the nut, but the bolt itself). Radek Chalupa, May 6, 2003

Broke the exit crimper for the right hand of Burl Meister. It was four fingers and a thumb used to go to the slot over the bulge. A friend and I worked it and didn't find an easy alternative so I think the last move is now the hardest move on the route. We could do all the other moves with a hang but the last took many tries. Maybe someone will find an alternative but I believe it bumps the route up a grade and adds a heartbreaking finish. Marty Bland, April 2, 2003

The right-hand anchor bolt on the second pitch of Bookworm is loose. December 31, 2002.

The anchors on Snuffy Smith have been replaced and lowered (2 feet) so the rope runs cleaner, and the sixth bolt (where previously there were 2 bolts) has been moved for easier clipping. Erik Wolfe; December 14, 2002

An additional bolt has been added to the direct start of No Golf Shoes. Erik Wolfe; December 14, 2002

A bolt and a fixed rope with clip in loops has been installed for the hairy 5.5 climbing and traverse at the top of the fourth horseman gully. Erik Wolfe; December 14, 2002

Hesitation Blues last remaining piton and the piton that has been missing for some time have been replaced with bolts. The upper part of the climb requires gear as in the past. October 21, 2002

On 09/14/02 I noticed a loose hanger on I believe the second or third bolt of Easy Reader. I didn't have anything to tighten it with, unfortunately. Albert Balch; September 16, 2002

Both anchor bolts on Iguanas on Elm Street are loose. I tightened them a little with a leatherman, but not sufficiently enough. August 26, 2002

There is a loose flake on the last pitch of Zebra-Zion about half way up the pitch. Definitely could reck someone's day at the base of morning glory. August 19, 2002

The bad bolts on the Pioneer Route have been replaced. Jim Ablao, First Ascent; August 13, 2002

The anchor bolts on the Rope-De-Dope Crack have been replaced. Jim Ablao, First Ascent; August 13, 2002

Bolt maintenance by Ryan Lawson as of May 2, 2002:
Red Wall Area:
Replaced missing anchor bolt on Bugging Out/Boys in the Hood
Replaced five bolts on Panama Red
Replaced two bolts on Red Rover
Tightened the top anchor on Super Slab
Added a belay anchor six feet to the right of the old anchor on the first pitch of Super Slab and a new rappel anchor was set closer to the edge
Dihedrals/Christian Bothers:
Replaced first five bolts on Double Trouble
Replaced anchor links on Dancer
Replaced links and tightened anchor bolts on Lycopodophyta
Replaced anchor links on the first pitch of Bunny Face
Replaced anchor links and one anchor bolt on the second pitch of Bunny Face
Replaced anchor bolts on Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut
Monkey Face:
Monkey Space bolts and anchors have been replaced on both pitches.
The bolt ladder to the right of the second pitch of Monkey Space has been upgraded.
Anchors on the Pioneer Route in the cave and Panic Point bolts have been replaced along with the summit anchors.

Climbed Toxic and noticed that the first bolt (that was added after the FA) is rounded out and moves around in the hole. It never gets fallen on, but I think it is loose from the belay angle. Ben Moon; April 4, 2002

The anchor bolts on Snuffy Smith are loose. Josh Lagalo; October 10, 2001

The anchor bolts of Helium Woman are tight and the second bolt of Chain Reaction has been tightened. Ian Caldwell; October 5, 2001

The next to last hold on Churning in the Wake has crumbled. This makes the last move a "bit" tougher. Ian Caldwell; October 5, 2001

The right anchor bolt on Breakdown in Paradise (to the right of Moscow) is loose as of 9/29/01. Dietrich

The 2nd-to-last fixed draw on Go Dog Go is frayed about halfway through and is probably dangerous. September 26, 2001

The anchor chains on many of the popular routes are getting INCREASINGLY WORN to the point where the unsuspecting climber could possibly get hurt. Gumby, Light on the Path, The Outsiders, 10 Gallon Buckets, all of those and of course more that folks just TR through the hangers. Robert Clarke; September 24, 2001

Ring of Fire has a broken hold just below the anchors now making the last move(s) difficult. Also the right anchor bolt to Blue Light Special is loose. Robert Clarke; September 4, 2001

One of the anchor bolts on Butterknife is quite loose while the right one just had some noticeable wiggle to it. Liz Anderson; June 11, 2001

The hanger on the anchor of Matthew 7:24 has been replaced; June 11, 2001

A hold has broken off on Zebra Seam. Near the top is the two finger undercling with fairly large side pull connected to it, about 6-8 inches below this was a left side pull about 4 inches long, this and the flake it was connected to, about 4 inches in diameter, broke off on June 1, 2001. Daniel Whiting

Both anchor bolts on Dances with Clams have been tightened. Ian Caldwell; May 29, 2001

Coleslaw and Chemicals' last bolt was very loose and the hanger had been missing. A new 1/2"x4" Rawl bolt has been added to replace the loose bolt. Ian Caldwell; April 7, 2001

The right hand bolt hanger at the top of Screaming Yellow Zonkers is REALLY loose. The whole bolt that is, it is not just a spinner. April 1, 2001

The left anchor bolt on Squashed Spider is loose. It has been hand tightened it, but it would be good if somebody could take a wrench to it. March 31, 2001

One of the anchor bolts on the second pitch ledge of Zebra-Zion/Cat Scan is loose. January 2001

Yoder Eaters' anchor does not have hangers on the bolts. Byron Roe; November 2000

Six of the old bolts on Sky Ridge and four bolts on Sky Dive have been replaced. Ryan Lawson; October 2000

Have you: put up a new route, clipped into a loose bolt, found a hanger missing or broke a hold? E-mail us the info at: info@smithrock.com

 

 

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