Role Model -
5.10d R **
Gear to 3.5 inches
Two ropes needed for the rappel
An unusual new
mixed gear climb is about 50 feet downhill of an obscure crack called
Zig Zag on the West Side of the Smith Rock Group. This route is
a throwback to the eighties when climbers were mixing it up using
as few bolts as possible and were putting up full pitches, not just
ending them when they slabbed out or the climbing style changed.
Start by climbing past well spaced bolts on the orange face on the
right side of an arÍte to a crux pull left onto the slab. Two more
widely spaced bolts lead to a beautiful splitter hand crack on a
rounded arÍte. When the rock in the crack starts to deteriorate,
climb the knobby slab on the right past one more bolt to the top.
Rappel with two ropes from ring anchors or finish to the top up
the gully system and then hike down.
[Description by Ryan Lawson]
- Ryan Lawson, Thomas Emde
May 20, 2001
Ryan Lawson on
the first ascent of Role Model