Logo Alan Watts Interview  East Face of Monkey Face
Sequence of Watts on the
East Face of Monkey Face
(5.13c/d) in 1984.

a bolt here and a bolt here, and have
an anchor here where you can lower
off with one rope," or anything like
that. That wasn't the idea, the idea
was still just trying to put up routes.

The reason Heinous Cling had three
bolts on the whole route is that I
could get in protection in other places
the rest of the way. It was run out in
places and there was a lot of weird
stuff, like a #5 hex you could slide
into a pocket -- a lot of small wires,
and just the sort of stuff that I would
never want to trust today.

I think I did feel sort of guilty...I don't
know....I knew that people were criti-
cal of the bolts. And I knew that the

whole attitude about bolts was that
there was nothing bold about it, that
it just took all the adventure away. I
think in response to that -- and in
response to just how much of a pain
-in-the-butt it was to hand drill -- if I
could find a spot for an RP or a Friend,
and if I could tell it was a good piece,
I would NOT put in a bolt.

But the next year, I did Darkness At
Noon, and there were all bolts on that.
And the only reason that was all bolted
is there were no places for suitable
gear. It was hand drilled.

When I went back to school in 85 it
was a good thing, that I was gone for

a while and other people came and
sport climbing got a boost from
somebody other than me. I was
actually headed in a misguided direc-
tion. I was putting up routes on rappel
that were more and more run out. They
just weren't any fun to get on, when it
comes down to it.

I remember doing what later became
French Connection, and the first time
I led that -- and I never linked it back
then because it was just too darn
scary -- but once you left Sunshine
there were four bolts to the top.

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