SmithRock.com LogoSmithRock.com Logo SmithRock.com Alan Watts Interview
SmithRock.com Close Shave
Watts on Close Shave
(5.12c R) on Monkey
Face in 1984.

Alan: I'm making a generalization, but
yes. For example, I bolted some stuff
last summer -- some really fun, fun
routes -- on Rope-D-Dope. There are
several new 10.a routes there now.
They're all good and fun, for the most
part. They were all things that were
top-roped. I did those, and I don't
think anybody really knew who did
them. Then something appeared on
the bulletin board like "I was just over
at Rope D Dope and there were bolts
all over the place...When is this going
to stop??...people are just getting so
carried away...."

SmithRock.com: And these are
climbers saying this?

Alan: Yeah! And then I posted some-
thing to say that I was the one who
bolted these routes and why I was
doing that. It was sort of an angry
post -- kind of as if to say "hey, part
of the reason you're here doing these
routes is because I was doing routes
long before you thought about
climbing...."

But, I think that the attitude was that
these were probably just more routes
that Ryan or somebody like that put
up. I'm sure the guy who posted that,
when he got the reply probably said,
“Oh, shit, I wish I wouldn't have done
that.” Let's just say that he sure didn't
post anything else; there was no
rebuttal.

SmithRock.com That's an interest-
ing anecdote reflecting some of the
current attitudes among Smith Rock climbers, and how Ryan and other
newcomers aren't accepted.

Alan: No, he's not accepted. In
general, the local Bend area
climbers just absolutely reject him
-- they do not like him at all. They
don't even give him a chance.

SmithRock.com: And there is nothing
really being done differently than what
you did?

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