Logo Alan Watts Interview Churning in the Wake
Working out the moves in
1986 on Churning in the
Wake (5.13a).

This is the six and final part of our
interview with the Alan Watts. Alan
talks about his new revised “Climbers
Guide to Smith Rock”, and how he
feels about his climbing career. We've covered
the past and the present in this
interview -- how about the future?
Can you tell us about your guide-
book? What gave you the inspiration
to write a guidebook about Smith
Rock? And what about the new

Alan: As for how I decided to write
it, it came down to a few things. I
like to write, and I had some interest
in doing it even before there was

any need. But then, there got to
be such a strong need with all the
growth and the fact that none of
the sport climbing routes and none
of the routes from the 80's were
even covered in a guidebook.

The old guidebook had maybe 260
or 270 routes and suddenly there
were 800 or 900 routes -- so the
need was huge. And then there were
the visiting climbers who would come
in and do little hand-drawn topo guides.
When those started to crop up it
became real obvious that someone
was going to do something someday.
I felt some pressure too...and it kind
of irritated me when these people
visited Smith Rock for a month and

then they decided to write a guide-
book while they were there. I had
done so many of the routes and was
so familiar with the place that it just
seemed like if anybody else would
have done the book I would have
been...upset, to say the least.

I wasn't going to let that happen.
I kind of felt pressured to do it,
and then I agreed to do it, and
then it took me quite a while to
actually get it done -- largely

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