Five Gallon Buckets
Morning Glory Wall.
the first couple of years
I didn't really do any work on it, I was
just climbing. But once people knew
that I was going to work on it, that
kept the competition away.
Now, it's something
that I like doing.
Although, I don't climb there nearly
as much, and it's been a bit harder
to get back into the scene and do
the new routes. Fortunately, the
vast majority of the new routes are
really easy, so I've been able work
through them pretty quickly. I still
think that I'm the best person to
write this guidebook at this point.
Nobody has done as many of the
routes as I have, and once again,
it seems like a good time to do it.
I don't know
if there will be another
one that I will do in the future after
this revision. If I climb and stay
involved I might. If I just totally go
in a different direction I likely
A lot of people
who write guidebooks
don't really know that much about it,
they don't even know that much
about the area. They don't do the
routes, they talk to people who have
done the routes -- and that's the
reason that a lot of guidebooks are
not especially informative.
You really have
amassed an amazing climbing
career, and history, at Smith Rock.
In looking back
have you had any
second thoughts about your chosen
career path as a climber? Do you
ever look back on your years at
Smith Rock with any regrets, or
was it rewarding?
Alan: It was
the right thing for me
to do when I did it. It was rewarding
-- certainly not ever financial re-
warding -- but it was immensely
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