Part of the beauty of Smith Rock State Park is its raptor presence.
Each year we’re graced with new offspring of these magnificent creatures when we help protect their nesting grounds, usually from May until late July.
As of February 17, 2017, bald and golden eagle pairs are here to roost.
While hiking trails remain open, some campsites and climbing route closures will go into effect from February 17 to August 1, 2017 to give them a little privacy.
Canyon Trail and Campground (Bivy) areas:
- The bald eagle nest is located near posted signs along the Canyon Trail. Park managers are asking for those using the trail to please:
*KEEP NOISE TO A MINIMUM
*DO NOT LOITER & STAY ON TRAIL
*TRAVEL IN GROUPS OF 4 OR LESS
- This habitat closure area will also effect tent camping areas along the rim in the Bivouac. As of 2/12/17 signs warning people of the sensitive area have been posted in the park.
The golden eagle habitat is located in the Monument climbing area.
All routes, cliffs and gullies within 1100 feet of the nest are closed.
Hiking trails, Staender Ridge and Juniper Spire (The Product) will remain open.
Please refer to 2010 “Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park” Guide Book by Alan Watts. See pages 244-270.
CLOSED routes are numbers 1-44, which includes Cajun Cliff, Victoria Tower, Little Three Fingered Jack, Puddy’s Tower, The Monument, Anglin’s Buttress and French Tent Rock.
As of March 17, 2017, the prairie falcons have returned as well and nesting closures for the following areas are in effect until June 30, 2017, or until 4 days after fledging (when birds leave the nest):
Picnic Lunch Wall area (above 100 feet):
Climbing is closed above 100 feet. Single pitch routes remain open.
On multi-pitch routes, the first pitch (P1) is open, the second pitch (P2) and above are closed. Hiking trails remain open.
Please refer to Alan Watts 2010 Smith Rock Guide Book, pgs 57-69. Closed routes are numbered 10-38.
Closed Routes (partial list):
P2&P3 Teddy Bear’s Picnic
P2-P5 Five Easy Pieces
P2-P5 Free Lunch
P2-P5 Picnic Lunch Wall (aid route)
Open Routes (first pitch less than 100 feet):
Honey Pot, P1
Teddy Bear’s Picnic, P1
Five Easy Pieces
Bubbas in Bondage
Voyage of the Cow Dog
First Kiss area:
A pair of falcons may be nesting in the First Kiss area north of Monkey Face. Main hiking trails area still open.
Climbing routes and ground at the base of the nest area are closed. Please refer to Alan Watts 2010 “Rock Climbing Smith Rock State Park” guidebook. See pages 206, 223-225.
Closed routes are numbers 41-47, which includes #43, “First Kiss.” Hello Kitty Cliff remains open at this time.
Falcons will defend their nest aggressively—they can be a danger to climbers, and vice versa.