It's time for a history lesson. This mega slab of rock with its five spires just to the left of The Dihedrals didn't always have a waiting line.

climbers on the Christian Brothers East Wall at Smith Rock State Park

climbers on the Christian Brothers East Wall at Smith Rock State Park

Starting in the 60s, before "sticky rubber" was even a phrase, the exploration of dirty chimneys, aid and easy free routes marked the humble beginnings of what would become a world renown climbing destination.

Then came the 70s, when crack climbing really took off with the establishment of a series of cracks, including the 5.11b Wartley's Revenge, that became THE route to do at Smith. While a few bolted face climbs such as the 5.9 Revelations were put in, it would take another ten years for the area to explode.

By the mid-80s, Christian Brothers, like The Dihedrals, attracted international attention with routes such as the 5.13c Rude Boys and the 5.14a Scarface. But don't be intimidated. The area has easy stuff too, starting at 5.5.

To get there, take a left at the bridge and follow the River Trail for about .25 miles just past The Dihedrals and just below Asterisk Pass, the boulder that looks like Woodstock from Snoopy comics fame. Like we said earlier, a good climb will be had by all with the wide range of faces and cracks.

Here's just a sampling: (All are rated 3-star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4-star)

East Wall:

The Brum Wall


  • Chemical Ali 5.14a  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

The Prophet Wall


  • Rawhide 5.11d  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Shoes of the Fisherman  5.11b  trad, gear to 3 inches, 1 pitch

  • Wartley's Revenge 5.11a  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch


  • Boy Prophet 5.12b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Dreamin' 5.12a  R  sport,  9 bolts, 1 pitch


  • Choke on This 5.13a  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Rude Boys 5.13c  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Rude Femmes 5.13c  sport, 11 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Smooth Boy 5.13b  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch


  • *Scarface 5.14a  sport, 13 bolts, 1 pitch

The Beard


  • The Left Side of the Beard  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch

The Testament Slab


  • Revelations  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch


  • Irreverence 5.10a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • New Testament 5.10a  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch

  • Barbecue the Pope 5.10b  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch


  • Blasphemy 5.11a  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Golgotha 5.11b R  mixed to 1 inch, 1 pitch


  • Panic Attack 5.12a  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

Combination Blocks


  • Charlie's Chimney  trad, gear to 5 inches, 1 pitch


  • Dancer  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch


  • Tinker Toy 5.9 X  trad, gear to 3 inches, 1 pitch


  • Self Preservation Variation 5.10a  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch

  • Earth Boys 5.10b  sport, 7 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Hesitation Blues 5.10b  mixed to 2 inches, 1 pitch


  • Overnight Sensation 5.11a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Ring of Fire 5.11d  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch


  • That .10d 5.12a  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch


  • Double Stain 5.13a  mixed to 1 inch, 1 pitch

climbing areas