Keep walking for about .5 miles following the river to the right of the bridge and 180 degrees of towering spires of the majestic Monument Area come into view.


While a lot of the rock has rotten bands that split the walls, there are notable exceptions. Like Little Three Fingered Jack and the 600 foot Monument. Be sure to mind signs for golden eagle nesting closures. The area is typically off-limits to climbing from late February through late June.

climber on Staender Ridge in the Monument Area at Smith Rock State Park

climber on Staender Ridge in the Monument Area at Smith Rock State Park

Want to get away from the crowds and climb in the area when many of the Monument routes are closed during nesting season? Another .37 miles brings the pinnacles of Staender Ridge into view, just left of the Burma Road.

For many years in the early days of climbing at Smith, the only access was up the Burma Road. Climbers camps provided a home base for the exploration of the area, ending when the gates on the road were locked.

Sometimes you can still hear voices from those early camps when the wind blows. Or maybe not. Go for the climbs at least.

climbers at the base of the Monument at Smith Rock State Park

climbers at the base of the Monument at Smith Rock State Park

Here are some of our picks: (All are rated 3-star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4-star)
NOTE:  see seasonal closure information for this area

Little Three Fingered Jack Area


Cajun Cliff


5.12:

  • Definitely Cajun 5.12a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

Big Ben

 

5.10:

  • Karwendel Dreams 5.10c  mixed to 2.5 inches, 3 pitches
     

5.12:

  • Howl 5.12a  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Eat Your Leberkäse 5.12b  sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Water Groove 5.12b R  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

The Monument


5.5:

  • North Ridge Direct  R  solo

5.6:

  • Lounger  sport, 1 pitch
     

5.7:

  • Bagpiping in the Buff  sport, 1 pitch, 40'
     

5.8:

  • Snow Bunny  sport, 1 pitch
     

5.9:

  • Approaching The Twilight  sport, 1 pitch
     

5.10:

  • The Safe Zone 5.10a  sport, 1 pitch, 60'

  • Praying Mantel 5.10a  sport, 1 pitch

  • *Tombstone Wall 5.10d  trad, gear to 3 inches, 1 pitch


5.12:

  • Abraxas 5.12a R  mixed to 3.5 inches, 6 pitches

Anglin's Buttress


5.11:

  • Brain Salad Surgery 5.11a  trad, gear to 6 inches, 1 pitch

Juniper Spire


5.13:

  • *The Product 5.13a  sport, 20 bolts, 1 pitch

Staender Ridge


Adit Rock


5.5:

  • Lollypop League  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.7:

  • Instant Replay  trad,  gear to 1.5 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.8:

  • Here and Never Found  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.9:

  • Nice Guys Finish Last  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • Anti-Reflective 5.11d  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

The Mole


5.8:

  • Chopper Xtrad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.10: 

  • Popper 5.10a   sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

Flattop


5.4:

  • East Chimney X  trad, gear to 1 inch, 1 pitch
     

5.9:

  • Lost Fox  mixed to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch

Staender Summit


5.9:

  • Desiderata  trad, gear to 4 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.12:

  • Smut  trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch

climbing areas

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