Keep walking for about .5 miles following the river to the right of the bridge and 180 degrees of towering spires of the majestic Monument Area come into view.
While a lot of the rock has rotten bands that split the walls, there are notable exceptions. Like Little Three Fingered Jack and the 600 foot Monument. Be sure to mind signs for golden eagle nesting closures. The area is typically off-limits to climbing from late February through late June.
Want to get away from the crowds and climb in the area when many of the Monument routes are closed during nesting season? Another .37 miles brings the pinnacles of Staender Ridge into view, just left of the Burma Road.
For many years in the early days of climbing at Smith, the only access was up the Burma Road. Climbers camps provided a home base for the exploration of the area, ending when the gates on the road were locked.
Sometimes you can still hear voices from those early camps when the wind blows. Or maybe not. Go for the climbs at least.
Here are some of our picks: (All are rated 3-star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4-star)
NOTE: see seasonal closure information for this area
Little Three Fingered Jack Area
Definitely Cajun 5.12a sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
Karwendel Dreams 5.10c mixed to 2.5 inches, 3 pitches
Howl 5.12a sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
Eat Your Leberkäse 5.12b sport, 10 bolts, 1 pitch
Water Groove 5.12b R sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch
North Ridge Direct R solo
Lounger sport, 1 pitch
Bagpiping in the Buff sport, 1 pitch, 40'
Snow Bunny sport, 1 pitch
Approaching The Twilight sport, 1 pitch
The Safe Zone 5.10a sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Praying Mantel 5.10a sport, 1 pitch
*Tombstone Wall 5.10d trad, gear to 3 inches, 1 pitch
Abraxas 5.12a R mixed to 3.5 inches, 6 pitches
Brain Salad Surgery 5.11a trad, gear to 6 inches, 1 pitch
*The Product 5.13a sport, 20 bolts, 1 pitch
Lollypop League sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
Instant Replay trad, gear to 1.5 inches, 1 pitch
Here and Never Found sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch
Nice Guys Finish Last sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch
Anti-Reflective 5.11d sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
Chopper Xtrad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
Popper 5.10a sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch
East Chimney X trad, gear to 1 inch, 1 pitch
Lost Fox mixed to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
Desiderata trad, gear to 4 inches, 1 pitch
Smut trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch