The dramatic 300 foot reddish-purple wall rising above the Misery Ridge Trail represents yet another type of rock in the park.


Rich in iron ore, the imposing Red Wall formation is a bit different than the normal welded tuff you see throughout. After crossing the bridge, look straight up and to the right for the Misery Ridge Trail. Go about .25 miles and cut up on the marked trail to the base of the wall.

A draw for its short approach and afternoon shade on hot days, the solid, well-featured climbs won't disappoint. A fixed anchor above Super Slab lets you quickly descend with two double-rope rappels, but you can skip that altogether by just joining back up with the Misery Ridge Trail.

The Red Wall area incorporates not only the Red Wall, but Red Ryder Buttress and Easy's Playhouse. Most of the range is from 5.6 to 5.10 b, but a few 5.11 and 5.12s are there to push the harder climber.

 climber getting lowered on the Red Wall at Smith Rock State Park

climber getting lowered on the Red Wall at Smith Rock State Park

 climber on the Red Wall at Smith Rock State Park

climber on the Red Wall at Smith Rock State Park


Here's a few in the area to check out: (All are rated 3-star in Alan Watts' Guidebook, with * noting a 4-star)


5.6:

  • Moscow  trad, gear to 3.5 inches, 4 pitches

  • *Super Slab  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 3 pitches
     

5.7:

  • A Stroke of Brilliance  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Amphetamine Grip R  trad, gear to 2 inches, 3 pitches
     

5.8:

  • Panama Red R  mixed to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.9:

  • Chouinard's Crack  trad, gear to 2 inches, 1 pitch

  • Peking  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 3 pitches
     

5.10:

  • Finger Puppet 5.10a  sport, 3 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Breakdown in Paradise 5.10b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Helter Direct Finish 5.10b  sport, 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Let's Face It 5.10b  sport. 6 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Titanium Jag 5.10b R  mixed to 2 inches, 3 pitches

  • Jag Connection 5.10c  sport, mixed to 2 inches, 2 pitches

  • Orgasmorgoria 5.10c  sport, 14 bolts, 2 pitches

  • Phantasmagoria 5.10c  sport, 9 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Bay of Pigs 5.10d  sport, 13 bolts, 2 pitches

  • Fingers of Fate 5.10d  mixed to 2 inches, 2 pitches

  • Straight Outta' Peking 5.10d  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • Chairman Mao's Little Red Book 5.11a  trad, gear to 1 inch, 2 pitches

  • Ride The Lightning  5.11b  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Sole Survivor 5.11b  sport, 8 bolts, 1 pitch

  • *Gulag Archipelago 5.11d  sport, 14 bolts, 4 pitches


Red Ryder Buttress


5.8:

  • Desperately Seeking Shade  mixed to 1.5 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.9:

  • Flex  trad, gear to .75 inches, 1 pitch
     

5.11:

  • I Almost Died 5.11a  trad, gear to 2.5 inches, 1 pitch


Easy's Playhouse


5.11:

  • *Boys in the Hood 5.11d  sport, 14 bolts, 1  pitch
     

5.12:

  • Big Boss Man 5.12a  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Straight Outta Madras 5.12c  sport, 4 bolts, 1 pitch

  • Adam Splitter 5.12c  TR, 1 pitch

  • Bugging Out 5.12d  sport, 5 bolts, 1 pitch


climbing areas